Olas Más Grandes
Costa Rica Day 17

hola hola pura vidaaa

what a day! i slept like SH last night - truly couldn't catch sleep - that hasn't historically been a pms symptom for me but hey change is constant! finally around 3a ish i could pass out and was back awake at 6:30a. wowie! 

rather than go back to sleep i decided carpe the diem and will nap later. so i head out to walk around (was already so excited to get the french toast at el santuario - thoughts when you can't fall asleep in bed: what you'll have for breakfast!!) but it wasn't open yet and Breaking Bread on our street here opens at 6:30a. one of their first customers! it's nice being up early here.

let me tell you, this is hands down the best french toast i've had here and maybe ever in my life. it's a must and came with seasonal papaya and pineapple. YUM

strolled down to the beach to walk it off and see what's goin on down there. a beach yoga class was happening right in front of El Be and saw another one setting up on my way back in. it's a nioce breeze and i like walking in the shade before the sun gets really high up in the sky - aka hotter - as the day goes on, so i walk south on the beach towards Langosta as it's more shaded. as i head back, i see a group of locals all gathered at the top of the beach looking out towards the water, enamored but chit chatting and saying what's up and good mornings as newcomers join. i pop over and ask a couple of the gals what they're all looking at? 'Las olas más grandes' -- ('the big waves'). indeed! they're hammering out there, but it was cool to hear (and see) how they're in awe of the waves, too, even though they live here. respect!!! we chat for a while - my spanish is not my best as i'm not a morning talker A and B, still waking fully up and working off less sleep than normal -- but they share how it's not okay to swim, too dangerous. these couple ladies are from Nicaragua! they like Nicaragua better than Costa and i share how i want to get there, and how a friend recommended seeing San Juan Del Sur and going to the volcano island. they nod and smile in agreement - muy linda (pretty). i ask where in Nicaragua they're from -- 

(León)

i say i'll have to look that up on a map after this

one of them, i think Linda, pulls up Catedral de León on her phone. so that's our landmark! i take a photo not to forget leon

i'm ready to get going after some friendly chit chat and laughs about butchering my spanish this morning (i don't do coffee but i do still need time to pull myself together!) and we say our goodbyes. note-they were there in their uniform as they do their beach massages there and let me know this on my way off.

after hearing all about their reactions to las olas, i'm excited to listen to my pending voicenote from Eric re: surfing. I had reached out to him yesterday to see if possible to surf but, yeah, the waves were tooo big! consistent with what Sebastian told me the other day! i just still like to ask and see what the response is  , so we said we'd chat later, and the voicenote he sent me that night said they'd be going surfing at 10:20a tomorrow (today), Tuesday. i listen to this prob around 8:30a this AM and am glad i had an early breakfast!! i continue setting off for villas macondo so i can get ready before heading out and have a little of the papaya i had in the fridge. i'm pumped, these waves are cranking!!

i'm tired and have to jump on a work call tomw 8am and lead it so here's the rest of the brain dump--

So. Much. Fun. !!!

waves, as noted, were so so big, too big for us to surf at the usual hot spot for surf lessons in Tamarindo. so Eric takes us to a new spot (!) to surf, playa Langosta ish, and we drive to get there. 2 cars - Giovanni and a young couple in one car and me, Audrey, her boyfriend Carlos and Eric in the other. Audrey and Carlos are staying at villas macondo, too - knew i recognized them from the kitchen fueling up before this! 

the waves and surfing was a blast and finally have built up some endurance (!) for these surf lessons with the stretching and swimming in the pool. or maybe it's just all adrenaline, who the hell knows. it gets a little crowded about midway thru the lesson, as this is about the surf-able spot given the size of the waves back where we are, so it's all fine but i do have a nice and sore raise on my left leg from a collish with Carlos getting knocked off his board and it headed towards me. all good! i get my first solid mouthful of salt water swallowed today, after turtle rolling to avoid a big wave and not looking before opening my mouth when coming up for air -- yep, there was a quick second wave there. completely worth the salt water for these awesome waves and surf!!! able to catch some on my own now and two rides were SO cool. not only did i catch them on my own but it was the feeling of being on top of the wave and then dipping down into it, rather than straight riding white water more leveled maybe? i don't know. i don't know how to describe the sensation but it was different than what i've done so far and it's just freakin fun. also knowing when (and that i can) pop up on my own is cool and gives me confidence to catch more and more and keep practicing what works well and what doesn't. 

super fun sesh! gorgeous day for it too and first time morning surfing which i totally love now. you still have so much day left after. speaking of, i treat myself to a delicious salmon mango roll from Anthony's Cuisine in the food court after i'm showered up. so good. 

pura vidaaa 

9:49p, 17 January